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Seaglass

Featured Restaurants by Diane Bair and Pamela Wright / September, 2012

Sweeping ocean views greet diners entering this spacious, upscale eatery on Salisbury Beach. The restaurant may be located in a warehouse-style pavilion, with an unadorned entrance, but once you’re inside, the views are spectacular. Sit at one of the tables perched over the water by the floor-to-ceiling windows and you’ll feel like you’re on the bow of a cruise ship.

 “The waterfront setting is a great place for any chef to work,” says Executive Chef Scott Brandolini. “Every morning when I get to the shop, the first thing I see is the crashing waves of the North Atlantic, and I’m reminded of all the great culinary options it bears.”

Begin with a selection from Seaglass’s extensive wine list, with more than 90 offerings from around the world, including at least 12 sparkling wines. Try the refreshing fruity Seaglass Summer Sangria. The well-stocked bar also includes a selection of single-malt scotches, single-barrel bourbons, cordials, port, and cognac.

For starters, the oh-so-light and fresh Halibut Ceviche has just the right amount of seasoning—a bit of mango, jalapeño, lime, orange, and cilantro—to showcase the sushi-grade, flapping-fresh fish. The Seafood Tower, from the raw bar, features local clams, oysters, shrimp, and lobster.

The daily seafood specials are always a good bet, showcasing Brandolini’s creativity. We sampled the pan seared Halibut Filet, served with olive oil–braised sunchokes, and a lightly roasted and chilled eggplant and tomato salad. Also on the daily menu was a Shrimp, Scallops, and Mussels special. “If it’s on the menu, it’s a must-try,” Brandolini insists. “It has local scallops, P.E.I. mussels, and Maine shrimp, with coastal European spices, fresh-picked peas, and a bright shellfish broth.”

Brandolini often uses fruits, vegetables, and mushrooms from Ferry Landing Farm in Newburyport, Massachusetts. It’s owned by Atlantic Hospitality Group, which also owns Seaglass and other area restaurants. “The first thing I consider in creating a dish is the season,” says Brandolini. “I use foods and cooking techniques that are true to the current season.”

Brandolini includes plenty of favorites for meat eaters, too. The tender Marinated Lamb is drizzled with a tart cherry gastrique and comes with a lentil ragout. The Roasted Half Chicken rests on a bed of foraged mushrooms and comes with a generous helping of creamy mashed potatoes. If you’re looking for traditional favorites, the straightforward Handcut New York Sirloin and seared Filet Mignon are popular standbys.

Desserts are also simple and straightforward. On a warm evening, the ever-changing Assortment of Gelato, inspired once again by seasonal ingredients, is a popular finisher. Or try the traditional Apple Crumb Pie or Bread Pudding.

Yet the always-new, seasonal dishes are what Brandolini feels best defines his culinary style. “I can’t name one signature dish, as I do not repeat,” he says. “I like to create something new every time.”

One thing is constant, though: the surf keeps rolling right outside Seaglass’ large picture windows.

Seaglass
4 Oceanfront North

Salisbury, Mass.
978-462-5800

photographs by Kindra Clineff

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